Rob's Blog

This is a reference post for the Intro Arduino class I am teaching as part of the Atlanta Radio Club’s 2nd Sunday Tech series.  More info on the series at http://secondsunday.tech.

Getting Started with the Arduino!

Low-cost user-friendly microcontrollers have changed the face of amateur radio! Many radios and DIY projects now are microcontroller based, and the relationship between hardware and software has radically changed.  This session will introduce users to the Arduino system and provide low-cost kits for getting started.  Capabilities of the Arduino will be demonstrated, and users will have a chance to get started.  A simple CW keyer application will be demonstrated using an Arduino and an optoisolator.  Others are invited to show up and demo their projects.

When: Sunday Dec 13, 2015

Where: Decatur Makers — located in the gym building behind the First Christian Church, Decatur, 605 W Ponce de Leon Ave

Questions: contact Rob Butera (rob@butera.org, KM4MK)

I have assembled kits for this class from bulk purchases.  Each kit contains the basics for getting started, plus a few components (optoisolator, audio) that may be helpful for simple ham projects (like a CW keyer).  Cost is $13 per kit (cash or e-payment, like PayPal). Email me for availability.

Each kit includes:

• 1 push button switch
• 2 10K resistors
• 2 1K resistors
• 1 10K potentiometer
• 1 817C optoisolator
• TRS socket for audio cable
• 2 red LEDs
• 1 small breadboard
• 20 jumper wires with pins
• Your choice of either:
  • Arduino UNO with  USB mini cable, 9V battery adapter w DC socket plug OR
  • the smaller (but similar) Arduino Nano with USB mini cable, 9V battery adapter with lead wires

What is the difference?  They differ in the form factor, the UNO is the most common Arduino and good with shields (expansion boards). The Nano (my favorite) is a lot smaller but ideal for finished projects. They have nearly identical functionality and the same microcontroller.

What you need to do before class if buying a kit

These Arduinos are Chinese clones that use the CH340 USB serial driver.

1. Bring a laptop computer
2. Install the USB-serial driver for the C340G chipset.  A lot of overseas sites (Chinese, Russian) have links to it.  Some have viruses. I have use this drivers from this site without a problem for over a year on my Mac (also Linux and Windows) http://www.5v.ru/ch340g.htm
3. Install the Arduino software from http://www.arduino.cc for your computer (Windows, Mac, Linux)

Reference Material

http://www.arduino.cc is an excellent reference.  It contains an online reference guide to the language and programming environment, and explains each of the example sketchs (programs) built into the programming environment.

All the components in the kit provided are standard components used in most electronic projects.  The optoisolator (4 pin chip that says “817C”) is the one item you may not see in many Arduino tutorials — you can find a data sheet for it (and many other integrated circuits) at this web site: https://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/Popular-ICs

Adafruit (http://www.adafruit.com) and Sparkfun (http://www.sparkfun.com)  are two common online companies to buy components and kits for microcontroller-based projects (such as LCD displays).  These companies also often have tutorials on their website for each of these components.  eBay is another place to buy many of these components — asian manufacturers often sell and ship direct for much less money than US or European manufacturers, with the tradeoff of a longer shipping time and unknown documentation.

Post-Meeting Notes — followup info and ideas for the future

• Some OSX users had trouble.  Seemed to be fixed by
  • Info on this blog post
  • Downloading these drivers (original manufacturer?)
  • Here are locally downloaded links of these drivers: Windows Mac Linux
• Here is my sketch for a CW beacon/message sender.  (ZIP file) You can simply change the #defines for your desired words per minute and the outgoing text, and the program will loop and key the message at the interval specified in the code.  There are MANY fully featured CW keyers out there, such as this one.
• Have an earlier start time (1 hour) for people who have not gotten the serial driver to work on their computer yet.  Send an email out on what they should see if it is properly installed.
• Next year — makerspace will have a lot of fully functional computers — use those!
• Component changes — better TRS audio adapter, pushbutton that is more breadboard friendly
• Consider two classes, one on basic breadboard electronics, the second one then using it with the Arduino

I live in a condo in downtown Decatur.  I love beer.  I am a beer nerd, not a beer snob.  There is a difference — each to their own.  I will admit then when faced with a lame InBev lager beer selection at a restaurant, I will just choose a Bud Light Lime-A-Rita instead (which really isn’t a beer).

So people just assume I go to the Decatur Beer Festival (DBF) each year.  Or any beer festival.  Reality — I have never been been to a beer fest.  I HATE crowds.  To be Decatur specific, I’ve seen large drunken crowds at the beer fest – why should I pay $40 when I can walk to one of 20 or so local bars whenever I want?  I know when the $3 happy hour are, and most of the good bars will give me 1 oz. samples anyway.

So I went this year.  DBF was offering $100 VIP tickets.  What does that get you?  1) unique portapotties 2) food and 3) tastings of harder to find limited release beers.

I went today.  My thoughts?

1) Is VIP worth it?  Yes and no.  There were about 20 or so beers in the VIP area.  Most were limited releases.  Too many were bourbon barrel aged – craft brewers – stop it!  It’s an overused fad by now.  I thought it would have died last year. Even one of my favorites – Terrapin’s Wake-n-Bake Stout – fell prey to the bourbon barrel temptation. I don’t like bourbon. Can you tell?  The VIP selection was heavily local, and a good set of beers.

Almost no beer reps were at the VIP area (at most booths, there exists a rep or two besides the pouring volunteers).  Who buys VIP tickets? The volunteers are not usually knowledgeable about the beers that they pour. I think the VIP crowd would appreciate

The VIP only bathrooms weren’t necessary  – while I was there (11-2), there were plenty of rest rooms in and out of the VIP area not being used.  UPDATE: By 3-4pm, they were necessary.

I hate crowds.  Have I said that?  The VIP area was a nice wide open area to get away from the crowds.  Lots of seating, and also good food provided by Oakhurst Market:  Ban Mi’s, wings, spiced peanuts, and lime popcorn.

VIP peeps get in at 11am, as compared to noon.  In hindsight, this was awesome (see below).  For me that hour made a huge difference.

In summary, the VIP area provided decent and ample food, space to chill out, distinct rest rooms that really were not needed, and a lot of unique (heavily but not totally local) limited releases to try.  I expected more in terms of the selection of limited-release beers.

Would I buy it again?  See my summary at the end of this article.

2) The Beer festival as a whole.  It was great until 130-2pm. I loved getting in at 11am (though many booths were not setup until 1130 or later).  Until then, no line for a pour was longer than 5 minutes.  Then the crowds started packing in.  I was somewhat disappointed with some of the larger craft breweries there.  Lots of their usual fare — nothing exciting, nor experimental, nor side projects.  I can buy that stuff anytime.  I guess this is to be expected – these festivals are trying to convert the interested masses, not existing beer snobs.  Kudos to two of my favorite west coast breweries — Lagunitas and Stone – for bringing interesting newer stuff to try.

3) Georgia represent!  The thing that made me the most excited was the phenomenal representation by Georgia breweries. The number has exploded in the past few years, to the extent that I can’t keep track of them all.  Also, the Georgia (and nearby SC) breweries were a lot more willing to experiment and push novel beers on the masses.  They were all pushing gabeerjobs.com, an organization dedicated to changing the 19th century blue-law era laws in Georgia that hamper the growth of small brewers.  In my favorites list below, many Georgia breweries feature prominently.

4) My favorites.  I am a beer nerd, and I am biased.  So here are my biases — take that into account!  I don’t like bourbon-barrel aged anything.  I think hops are over-rated, and I don’t like most strong IPAs.  I do like strong ales, and complex balanced beers like Belgian triples and quads, as well as stouts and porters.  I love sours, if balanced. I like a malty beer over a hoppy one.  I’m not anti-hop (I like Terrapin Rye, for example), I just don’t like it to dominate.  My favorites surprised me — nearly all from Georgia. And many were lighter than the kind of beer I usually like.  I put at * after those that were in the VIP area.

• Orpheous Sycophantes*.  It’s a fig sour.  Not a full-on sour, but definitely a sour, with some complexy and fruity flavors.  Orpheus is one to watch out for.
• Brass Monkey Nuts* by Yes Face beer.  An Atlanta brewery I had not heard of. A great british style nut brown, brewed with hazelnuts.  A cask. It works well.  When I walk back later today, I need to find their stout in the general admission area.
• Second Self Thai Wheat.  For me, wheat beers are the lagers of craft beer. They work on a hot day, and quench thirst.  I don’t seek them out, but will drink one. This does more.  I love ginger.  This is a wheat beer with lemongrass and ginger. All the flavors are there, complementary, and well blended.  I could drink this all day.  Second Self is a relatively new Atlanta brewery – I had not even heard of them until I went out to Pint-n-Plate with some students from my lab just a few days ago.
• Creature Comforts Cucumber and Lime Tritonia.  Like the Thai Wheat above, my instinct was not to like this.  But I love sours. And this is one. And the subtle hints of cukes and lime work well with a sour.  I had never heard of this Athens-based brewery, and all their beers were creative and intriguing.  I look forward to more.
• Cherry Street Brewing Co-op Chief Sawnee’s Stash Coconut Porter. The name sounded like a gimmick (there are a lot of flavor-added porters I don’t like), but I tried it and loved it.  A porter with subtle flavors of coconut, dates, and vanilla.  Barely tasted any, but they were there and it made the porter really drinkable.  This Cumming, GA based brewery is really a brew pub selling at Rick Tanner’s Grille and Bar in Cumming, GA. All their beers were creative.
• McKenzie’s Seasonal Reserve Hard Cider.  A few cider breweries were present – Woodchuck, Crispin. This cider, from Buffalo, NY, had a spiciness that made cider a lot more interesting to me.

So — would I buy VIP next year?  Maybe.  I think my first choice would be to volunteer!  I live a 5 minute walk away.  In earlier years, one had to earn volunteer points for the privilege of volunteering at the Decatur Beer fest. From talking with a co-worker who was pouring beer at one of the tents, this has all changed. They need over 500 volunteers now. It sounds like becoming a volunteer is not hard nor a privilege anymore (and some of them need pouring lessons!)  I would volunteer a late afternoon shift if I could have 11 (or 12) until 2 to drink.  Otherwise, I’d buy the VIP again.  I am on the fence on whether or not the special VIP beers by themselves are worth it (DBF – step up the game next year — did you notice the VIP tix did not sell out?) but the quality food, the open space for crowd-haters like me, and the fact that the dollars go to local organizations that benefit my immediate family, make this an option I would consider again. UPDATE: and see John’s comment about where the VIP dollars go.

It’s 330pm.  I’m going to walk back at 4pm and see what I think of the crowds.  And I need to find YesBeer’s tent in the open area. UPDATE: way too crowded. Waiting in line for 10-15 minutes for 2 oz of beer I can try anyway on another day. Next year, I’m going to volunteer 2-5 and drink beforehand …

Finally, I had many other good beers I’m not mentioning. These were my favorites based on my criteria of “if I really liked it I snapped a photo”

Overall, other than the crowds, a fun, well-run time.  Even when it got too crowded for me, it was not a crazy, misbehaving crowd.  Just, well, a dense crowd!

During the last “snow week”, Chloe was sitting at the kitchen table playing with the resource hex tiles from the game Settlers of Catan.  “What are you doing?” She replied that she was trying to design a head-to-head kind of 2 player variant of Settlers of Catan.

We talked about what we were trying to achieve – a variant that pits players head to head, with equal ability to acquire resources at the start, and promotes conflict and strategy between the two players.  We have tried another 2 player Catan variant, but we wanted something designed not by tweaking Catan rules for two players, but for head-to-head conflict with a balanced start.

HeadToHeadCatan (PDF file) describes our first effort with this head to head version.  Try it! Send us comments.  The photo above shows how the board might look as the game is about to start.

Some game design notes from play testing.

• The requirement that a player can have 2 resources with 2 hexes each is balanced by the 5 pip rule.  This makes player setup strategy more interesting. We initially tried a 4 pip constraint, but 5 offers a bit more flexibility while still constraining the 2-tile options.
• We tried a set up phase where players take turns placing tiles and numbers – it was kind of plodding.  We found that allowing each player to setup as they please, and then move tiles/numbers around after seeing the other player, was more efficient. When both players agree with placement, game play can start.
• We have not messed with the Development Cards.  However, we have thought about removing all the Victory Point cards, or reducing their number.
• The game play offers a range of strategies.  Spending too much effort on defense can hinder scoring down the road.   We’ve tried to play games where we intentionally sought “disruptive” strategies that would mess the rules up, and so far it seems pretty balanced.  But we have only played 5 or so games so far …
• We added the “friendly robber” rule (often used in online play) – it helps to prevent one player from getting way behind at the start.
• The idea of giving one player the 6 and the other player the 8 was intentional, and works well.
• So far in play testing, the ports rule is not helping much – they often do not come into play until a player is at 6-8 points, at which point they are commanding enough resources per round to likely not need it.  Other options we have considered include maybe allowing each player to choose a 2:1 and 3:1 port, and place them on the opposite player’s side of the board after game setup is complete, or some similar variant.
• We tried various desert locations, as well as one desert vs two.  This combination seems to work best so far in balancing opportunity with risk.
• The 3 settlement/cities rule on your side was not just to promote interactions, but balance as well. It is possible to hole up on your side and win, but there are consequences for doing so.

SOLD in April 2014.  Left posted here for nostalgic purposes …

1993 VW Eurovan MV Weekender. 156K+ miles.  Silver/gray with white pop top.

We are selling Evie, our 1993 Eurovan.  She was purchased in February 2011 with 123K miles.  The previously owner said Evie spent much of her life on the west coast, and was brought to the east coast after acquired from a family member. No rust. Evie has carried our family of 4 on several amazing road trips, including a 9000 mile trip out west. We have been with her from coastal California campgrounds to the Cape Cod seashore, and from Wyoming and the Dakotas south to Texas.  She has the wear and tear of a van her age, but is in good condition and we have attentively maintained her. Nearly all service has been performed at Karma VW Repair.  She is garaged at our home in Decatur, Georgia, a few miles east of downtown Atlanta.

This ad is long, but is intended to be as complete and honest description as possible since many who may be interested may be looking from a long distance.

Features and Specs.

This is the Weekender model – not the full camper with the heater/stove/sink, but the more open model that is roomier and more flexible (and some say, harder to find). Two rear facing seats behind the front seats, and the seat behind the front passenger seat is removable. Rear, forward facing, bench seat. Pop out table between the bench and the drivers side rear facing seat. 12V cooler under the drivers side rear facing seat. The bench folds flat for ample interior sleeping room, and of course there is the pop top!  When the pop top is up, it is also possible to lift the ceiling to provide standing room (e.g., getting changed – see photos). There is storage behind the bench seat and ample storage (access from rear) beneath. We routinely stored sleeping bags, folding chairs, camp stove, and other camping necessities beneath the bench seat.  Folded flat, it can also haul a lot of cargo, both on the folded down seat as well as beneath.  Pullback curtains for all windows except the front door windows.  Very little wear or staining on the seats and cushions/pads, given its age.  Carpeting is clean, but does have spots/stains from camping through the years (update – just shampooed, appearance improved).  No excessive wear on carpet.  Floor mats (two large in the rear, plus two in the front) have helped protect the carpet. Poptop fabric has no holes/tears, all zippers work. There is a minor seam rip (more like a 1mm gap, not a tear) on the front fabric a few inches in length, backed by tape just to prevent it from becoming a tear.

A second 12V deep cycle battery under the drivers seat powers the interior lights, 12V cooler, and one 12V outlet I installed at the rear of the driver’s seat for easy power in the rear. In a pinch, you can even use the second battery to jump start the first (yes I have done it!).  AC and heat work fine – no AC issues beyond replacing the compressor last year. Electric windows/locks/ mirror controls. Cruise control. Automatic transmission. Mileage is 15 mpg city and 18-20 mpg highway.  Has always passed Georgia emissions, most recently in October 2013.  Title is clean and in possession. VIN:  WV2MC0700PH060372

Improvements.

• JVC car stereo with removable face plate, USB and front aux inputs and rear aux input. Designed to work seamlessly with iPhone/iPod devices. There is a remote control for the radio (we have never used it). Rear auxiliary input is connected to a Pioneer INNO XM receiver cradle mounted where the ashtray used to be (no, I don’t have the ashtray). XM Antenna is mounted on hood. I will provide a used unactivated Pioneer INNO receiver if requested, otherwise the power/audio/antenna connections can likely be reconnected to a newer Sirius/XM device.
• XM receiver cradle is mounted where the ashtray should be.  I do not have the original ashtray.
• 2 gang electrical outlet in rear with pass-through plug on outside of van. This is not powered by the battery, but makes camping easier – power cord to outside of van – working electrical outlets inside.  This was installed by a previous owner.
• 12V outlet installed at base of drivers seat and powered by aux battery. Makes rear access to 12V power a lot easier and provides a useful device charging port when the van is off.
• I have modified the 12V cooler wiring to allow it to be powered by an external 110VAC power supply and installed a lighted switch to indicate if the cooler is powered by the battery or external supply.  Power supply is included.
• 1.25 inch trailer hitch and electrical connector for trailer lighting.  We have never towed a trailer.  While I cannot used the trailer electrical connector, the LED indicators on the connector lights properly when brakes and turn signals are applied.
• Home-made magnet-attached bug nets/doors to cover the side door and rear opening when camping. I fabricated these from a large bolt of mosquito netting and a large number of neomydium magnets.

Repair and maintenance history.

We spent almost $4000 in repairs when we first bought it – these were all deferred maintenance repairs expected at this age. For the years 2012 and 2013 repair and maintenance costs have averaged about $200/month. Oil has been changed regularly and we use synthetic oil. All repairs and nearly all local service has been performed at Karma VW. Karma uses OEM parts as much as possible.   All service receipts from Karma VW can be provided for the services below.

March/April 2011: Replaced ball joints. Replaced water pump. Replaced timing belt. Routine belts replaced. Driver side mirror reattached. Electrical fix for flakey gas/temperature cluster. New front brake pads and rotors. Replaced auxiliary battery with a new deep cycle battery. Alignment adjusted after repairs.

June 2011: new AC compressor (road trip repair – compressor pulley got loose, shredded belt. Aftermarket NAPA product)

July 2011: AC controls/electrical repair. Recharged AC after repair.

February 2012: New tires at 137K. Tires are rated for 80K miles.

May 2012: replaced interior dash frame, which was causing AC/heat controls to not work right.

August 2012: another new AC compressor. OEM this time!

October 2012: new distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, ignition wires

April 2013: replace leaking coolant flange, vacuum line to ECM, leaking valve cover gasket, passenger side CV boot

May 2013: new primary battery (have receipt for pro-rated warranty), new alternator

October 2013: drivers side CV boot, replace seal around switch in transmission where transmission fluid was leaking.

Issues a future owner should be aware of.

• There is a minor dent on the passenger side towards the rear. We never considered it worth repairing.  See photo.
• The 12V cooler runs great when the engine is running, or under exterior power. When the engine is off and it is powered by the aux battery, it sometimes makes a clicking sound, which I believe is a relay in the cooler kicking in for a marginal voltage (the cooler has a cutoff switch to avoid draining the aux battery).  It also happens sometimes while running when a lot of accessories are turned on (like running the heat at high fan while blasting the stereo), so I think again it is a voltage-sensitive issue in the cooler itself.  We are very happy with how cold the cooler is.
• Sometimes the temperature gauge runs high (3/4 instead of the normal 1/2).  This is associated with the coolant light flashing for a few minutes after the van starts, and then the temperature gauge will suddenly jump up from 1/2 to 3/4.  The coolant system is fine (temp OK, fluid levels OK). We suspect it is a minor electrical/gauge issue, and needs a simple electrical repair similar to what was done in March 2011.  We are waiting for the problem to become repeatable on a regular basis before taking it to the repair shop.
• The engine runs fine – it is a 2.5L Audi inline 5 cylinder, used on 1993-1996 models of this van. Due to its age, one should expect leaks due to worn seals or old hoses. We fix them as they occur.
• The van has aftermarket plastic hub caps. I can provide 3 of the original VW hubcaps if desired.
• Older VW vans have cracked or worn interior trim work.  When we acquired the van, much of the trim was “sticky” (see online forums for discussion of this).  I have regularly applied 303 (a UV protectant, similar to Armor All) and eliminated the stickiness.  There are cracks at the tops of the A Pillars above the front doors, and along the top of the sliding door (see photos). No sign of cracks getting worse (these all existed when vehicle was acquired).
• Two chips in windshield have been filled by glass repair shop

Price.  All reasonable offers entertained – the worst I can do is say no.  Kelly Blue Book value for this model in this condition was $13000 before it got too old last year to be listed 🙂 eBay auction prices range from $6K to $12K for this model and general year (I have tracked most auctions over the past year).  Email rob AT butera DOT org for more information.  Potential buyers can pay for an inspection prior to sale – I recommend Karma VW Repair just two miles away from us, even if they are where all my service was performed.  They are good, honest, and local.  Payment must be in wired funds to a US bank account.

Sale includes:

• The van as described
• Original owner’s manual, 12V cooler manual, stereo manual, documentation for connecting 12V cooler to 110VAC power
• 110VAC to 13.8VDC power supply for powering cooler from 110VAC and associated connection wires
• Custom-fit front window shade with black and reflective sides
• Original tire jack, after-market cross-style lug wrench
• tire repair kit, 12V-powered air compressor, spare tire mounted beneath
• Emergency road flares, orange road-hazard triangles, jumper cables
• 1.25″ Trailer hitch and electrical adapter for trailer
• 3 spare (OEM) VW hubcaps (current hubcaps are aftermarket)
• 4 stacking RV-style “leveling” blocks – place under tires to level vehicle on a gradient
• VW Transporter T4 1990-95 Workshop manual Owner’s Edition (by Brookland Books)
• optional: used not-activated Pioneer INNO2 XM receiver (fits provided cradle).  Even if you don’t take it, the electrical/audio/antenna wiring I installed can likely be connected to a new Sirius/XM receiver.
• the bicycle rack in the pictures is NOT included