I purchased a 2 piece greenland paddle for Christmas – the Akiak by Gear Labs. I also spent time this winter building one from a 2×4 and plans from Cape Falcon Kayak.
General thoughts paddling with the Akiak. It took about an hour to dial in, but once I figured out the paddle angle, I really liked it — so quiet! The lack of sound of my stroke is a sign that the paddle angle is just right. This angle (canted forward) is so different from a euro-blade, as well as the lack of paddle rotation (habit from whitewater kayaking). The Akiak also flutters a bit if the paddle angle is not right.
I also like how the blade can be slid to be held off-center left or right (it is a greenland thing to do) and keep on paddling, and the change in depths allow a steady kayak turn with no pausing the forward stroke or needing sweeps. I do not like that the transition from the loom to the blade on the Akiak is gradual, since when I do go off-center I cannot feel when I am back to center. The paddle does have dots every centimeter or so and I know where my hands should be — I’m thinking of putting tape on the blade so I can feel the center position.
In April I finished my 2×4 to greenland paddle using Cape Falcon’s plans. I made many mistakes, resorted to wood filler, misused several tools (band saw, power plane, hand plane, spoke shave) but learned in the long run the right way to use them.
Comparison of the two paddles. I compared the two paddles with two laps around the lake at Herring Pond in Eastham (and again later that day at two ponds in Brewster). Total on the 2 trips was nearly 6 miles, with my time spent 50/50 between my wooden and Akiak paddles.
The Akiak still wins. They both felt fine for the forward stroke. The wooden one does not flutter like the Akiak when the paddle angle is off (but I can hear it splash). The Akiak was much more comfortable sculling than the wooden one. The loom on the wooden paddle is a little thicker than I’d like. And I would definitely spend more time sanding the loom in the future. The one thing I DID like about my wooden paddle was the shoulder between the loom and the blade – a natural feel of the center point.
I am going to make version 2 of my wooden paddle, with the following changes from version 1:
- Western Red Cedar instead of Pine
- I will more aggressively shape the blades with both the power and hand plane, both thinner and more “wing like” cross section. I was too cautious planing the blades on this paddle, worried about over-cutting, and my later final shaping with the hand plane still wasn’t enough.
- Make the loom a bit thinner and rounder
- Shorten the blade a little to the length of the Akiak
- Possible widen the blade maybe 1/4″, similar to the Akiak
- Initially cut the paddle with 3″ extra at each end to avoid snipings when trimming down the board with the power planer. Only cut after the blade is at the intial thickness.